What does science say about microneedling therapy?

Plastic surgeons Andre Camirand and François Doucet observe that their patients' scars improve after the use of a tattoo gun , not to pigment the skin, but to mechanically perforate the scar area .

By performing repeated micro-perforations , they observed a progressive reorganization of collagen and a more uniform skin texture , without altering pigmentation.

This discovery marks the first modern demonstration that tiny needles can induce controlled dermal repair , laying the groundwork for what would quickly become clinical microneedling .

Following their observations in 1995, Camirand & Doucet published in 1997 the first formal description of a technique they named “needle dermabrasion” .

They use a tattoo gun equipped with sterile needles to create uniform micro-perforations on scars, without pigment, in order to stimulate re-epithelialization and collagen reorganization .

Their publication demonstrates that this approach provides a visible improvement in hypertrophic and atrophic scars , while avoiding the pigmentary complications of lasers of the time.

This protocol became the first direct ancestor of the medical microneedling used today.

German engineer Horst Liebl revolutionized the practice by creating the very first Dermaroller , a cylindrical roller equipped with hundreds of aligned micro-needles .

Unlike motorized tools or tattoo guns, this device allows for regular, controlled and relatively painless micro-perforations over large areas of skin.

The Dermaroller triggers increased production of collagen and elastin , while improving texture, acne scars and superficial wrinkles — without major social downtime.

This innovation marks the entry of microneedling into modern aesthetic practices and paves the way for the standardization of collagen induction therapy (CIT) worldwide.

In 2006, South African plastic surgeon Dr. Des Fernandes formalized the concept of Percutaneous Collagen Induction (PCI) , the scientific basis of modern microneedling.

It demonstrates that the creation of controlled micro-channels in the dermis directly stimulates neocollagenesis (production of new collagen), without destroying the epidermis — unlike the ablative lasers of the time.

Its protocol combines professional rollers and longer needles to reach the deep layers of the dermis to effectively treat scars, wrinkles and photoaging.

Dr. Fernandes' work finally validates microneedling as a scientific, reproducible, safe and highly effective procedure , adopted worldwide in aesthetic clinics.

Between 2010 and 2015, microneedling experienced major scientific growth , with a proliferation of clinical studies published in dermatological journals.

Researchers demonstrate its effectiveness on numerous indications: acne scars, fine lines, uneven texture, enlarged pores, stretch marks, hyperpigmentation and even alopecia .

This period also introduced the first automated devices (Dermapen) , offering more regular switching speeds, adjustable depths and better accuracy than manual rollers.

Studies also show that the micro-channels created improve the penetration of topical active ingredients (vitamin C, HA, peptides), giving rise to the concept of “microneedling-assisted drug delivery” .

It is at this moment that microneedling officially transitions from the status of an alternative technique to that of a recognized, validated and adopted procedure worldwide in aesthetic dermatology.

Between 2020 and 2025, microneedling enters a new era with the appearance of high-precision automated devices (electric pens, motorized frames) offering stable needle speeds and depths adjustable to the micron.

Practitioners are adopting combinations of microneedling + radiofrequency (RF) , a technology that heats the deep layers of the skin to further stimulate neocollagenesis and achieve a superior tightening effect.

This period also sees the integration of highly concentrated topical serums (vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, peptides, growth factors) applied immediately after the session to take advantage of the opening of micro-channels and maximize results.

Finally, microneedling is increasingly integrated into a holistic anti-aging approach , combining nutrition, photobiomodulation, advanced skincare routines and dermatological prophylaxis, positioning this technique as an essential pillar of modern skin rejuvenation.